The Caging Section

The caging section will explain to you how to cage your snake.

Cage Size

The cage size depends on what type of snake you have. If you have a relatively small snake then you should buy a 10-gallon aquarium, but if you have a larger snake for example King, Corn, Rat snakes, then you should buy a 20-gallon aquarium although they can get around in a 10-gallon. If you have a very large snake (such as Boids) a 55-gallon snake tank should be bought for the babies. Once they get older though, you will have to take a room from your house and customly build a snake cage. Whatever the size though, a rule that goes around is that your cage must be at least 2 larger than your own snake. Most people think that if you buy a small cage and let the snake grow to large for it will stop growing. This is not true. All animals grow to a certain length, it's like putting us in a jail when we are two years old and we will never grow up! Does not work!

Now usually you get a choice between a "high" tank which extends higher than your "low" choice. If you have snakes such as Kings and ground snakes then you should buy the "low" option. If your snake is partly arboreal like the Corn and baby Boids then you should opt for the "high" style.

The Lid

Lets get something straight. Snakes are good escape artists, so this means that you MUST have a tight fitting lid. Fish tank lids that have a built in florescent light make an easy escape route for a snake, they should not be used! Young boys that usually catch frogs or snakes and put a wire mesh with books or bricks on top, will not work. I tried and had a few escapees! A determined snake will push up a corner and escape. I started keeping snakes with a plain aquarium with a plastic lid with a couple of holes in the sides and this did not work. So, I have bought a cage which I will tell you about later.

The most commonly used "lid" is called a railed lid. This is a aquarium which is modified to have special doors on the side. The top is covered by glass while there are little sliding doors attached to a rail. Usually these are a bit expensive because of the modified aquarium but they are the best. These cages are virtually escape proof. If you attach a lock to the doors a snake can not get out and the lock will keep intruders away.

Tank Substrate

There are a couple of different substrates which you can use.

Newspaper: The best substrate to use is Newspaper. If you place layers of it in the Vivarium (snake cage) you will have the best substrate. Newspaper is absorbent. But that is about it. Unfortunately, it is not very pretty. It might be easy to clean up, but the look of it tends to turn people off. I must confess that I have not used newspaper. Newspaper is cheap and sterile. If you don't mind a not too good looking cage then newspaper is for you.

Pine/Cedar Shavings: This is the best substrate to AVOID. This is usually what mice and hamsters are kept on. The small particles of dust that are produced by these shavings are very irritating to a snakes lungs and mouth, and the volatile oils that are present can be very toxic to snakes. You should never keep snakes on Pine/Cedar shaving nor should you ever feed a live rodent that has been kept on this because the snakes will get poisoned (wash the mouse with water).

Corn Cob: Corn cob is my favorite substrate. It looks natural in the snakes cage, shows off the snakes color to good use and is quite absorbent. They are also very easy to clean, just scoop out the feces and place in a new handful of fresh corn cob. They also retain heat well and if you have rocks in your cage then the snakes can burrow under them or under a deep part to feel safe. There are some disadvantages though is that if you are feeding your snake slimy food such as earthworms or fish, you will need to feed it in a different tank since the corn cob will stick to the prey and cause internal blockages which could kill the snake, pre-killed mice sometimes are a bit damp and Corn Cob also sticks to them and that Corn Cob absorbs the moisture in the air. To fix these problems you should put the earthworms in a large container in the tank so that the snake will eventually find them when it is wondering around, feed the pre-killed rodents on/in another tank or container and if the humidity drops just place a bigger water bowl under the basking lamp or directly on top of the heating pad.

As soon as you find a fece you should scoop it out immediately so that the Corncob doesn't go moldy. This also applies to when you spill water. One other good thing about Corncob is that if you snake poops, the smell isn't as distinct as with Astroturf or newspaper.

Astroturf: Astroturf is the most common ( except for newspaper ) used substrate. This is a very good substrate, it even looks nice. The only problem is that you will need two pieces since Astroturf is plastic and is not absorbent. As soon as you discover a fece just swap the pieces of Astroturf and clean the other one. Simple! It also shows the colors of your snake on its dark green plastic.

The snake's Hide Box

Remember that snakes are predators as well as prey. Birds and other animals feed on snakes as well. Usually snakes in the wild will find a nice cave or rock to hide under to be safe from predators. In captivity we have to provide this shelter with a "hide box". This is something that a snake can fit is coiled body inside of and feel safe by touching all of the sides. Snakes deprived of hide boxes with become stressed in time and with stop feeding and will succumb to other diseases. Some pet stores sell hide boxes with a cable that will warm up. This is not necessary! You should get a hide box that is shaped like a natural rock or other feature to make it look more natural. A usual hide box can be created from cutting out a shoebox or (if you want to be creative) sticking pieces of bark together with a non-toxic glue. The entrance should be wide enough for a snake to get its head through. Some arboreal snakes prefer their hide box to be off of the ground. You could glue a certain hide box to a tree branch.

Cage Furniture

Most snakes can live with the basic cage requirements but most snake keepers like to add in some extras to make the cage look a bit natural. Remember that these have got nothing to do with the snake and are of no use to them, except for the climbing branch.

Climbing branches: All climbing branches should be strong and sturdy with enough strength to support and hold up the snakes weight. It should also be long enough for the snake to climb well. Pet stores usually have plastic climbing branches but you can find some outside. Make sure that they are properly disinfected first and completely dry before putting it into the cage. Remember that you should NOT use Pine, Spruce or any other resinous trees.

Other Furniture: Most keepers like to keep a small rock pile so that the snake may either hide under or bask in the lamps heat (see the heating section). You should make sure that when the snake is climbing on them, they do not fall over and crush the snake.

Most keepers like to keep plants (live or artificial) in the cages. I personally do not think that it is necessary for snakes to have plants. It is harder to keep clean and alive since most snakes like to uproot the (live) plants. You may use plants but do so if you really must.

I will briefly discuss what else you should have because it sort touches this section. You should make sure that you have a thermometer and a humidity gauge. Also make sure that you know what environmental conditions you snakes live in (like Corn snakes like it in 26ºC -20ºC and in the 50's for humidity). Also you make sure that you have a proper heater (see heat section).

Housing Checklist:

• 20-gallon aquarium

• A railed door lid

• Corn Cob cage substrate (Astroturf)

• Adequate Water Bowl

• Hide Box

• Thermometer and Humidity gauge

• Incandescent 60-watt basking light

Housing Your Snake     Snakes, such as this gopher snake, must be able to cool themselves. Captive snakes can thrive and breed in either lush cages or spartan quarters, but the aim in all cases is to provide a healthy, secure and absolutely escape-proof environment. Some species do, of course, have more specific caging necessities. Terrestrial snake species, for example, do well in horizontally oriented cages but we urge you to consider vertically oriented terraria for arboreal species. Captive snakes must have dry cages, and they must be absolutely clean. Even species such as ribbon and water snakes, forms that are usually associated with aquatic habitats in the wild, require dryness in captivity so they don’t develop skin disorders. In the wild, the onset of these potentially fatal illnesses is deterred by long basking periods in unfiltered sunlight. A terrarium may be as simple as a converted aquarium fish tank or a plastic shoe, sweater or blanket box (all available in hardware and department stores). It will often contain nothing more than an absorbent substrate of folded newspaper, paper towels or aspen shavings, a water bowl that won’t tip and a box in which your snake can hide. The suitability of these conditions is reflected in the tens of thousands of rat, king and gopher snakes and many others that are bred in them annually. Tips on the Tank   Glass aquaria are available in horizontal or vertical “high-cube" styles. Terrestrial snakes do well in horizontal tanks while vertical tanks are excellent for arboreal species.   Be sure that your set-up has a secure top. Loose tops can be secured with tape or velcro strips. Locking plastic or metal-framed screen lids are available in sizes to fit most standard aquaria.   If you use plastic caging, you must provide ventilation by drilling holes through the sides. We prefer ventilation on at least two sides but usually ventilate all four sides. If an aridland species is being kept, we ventilate the top as well to prevent a build up in humidity.   If you are handy, you can build your own tank up to a capacity of several hundred gallons by joining panes of glass with silicone aquarium sealant. Hold the glass in place with strips of tape while the sealant is curing (about 24 hours). The most important thing when using the sealant is to make absolutely certain that the edges of the glass that are to be sealed are entirely free of oils or any other debris that could prevent the aquarium sealant from forming a tight seal. The Substrate and Cleaning The substrate is the material that lines the bottom of the tank so that your snake rests on something more natural and comfortable than glass. It can range from a layer of paper towels to several inches of smooth sand into which a snake can burrow. Other acceptable materials include newspaper, rolled corrugate, aspen shavings, cypress bark mulch and dry leaves. We use those of live oak. Do not use cedar shavings or aromatic wood shavings. The substrate also serves as the repository of your snake’s waste and should be removed and replaced whenever the snake eliminates. It is a good idea to clean the entire tank at the same time. Acceptable cleansers include alcohol-based glass cleaners, mild soap and water, dilute Clorox® solution and dilute Roccal® solution. Do not use phenol-based cleansers, such as pine cleansers. Cage Furniture It is important to provide the most natural surroundings possible. Cage furnishings figure prominently. The term cage furniture covers virtually all cage decorations, whether a simple wooden snag, an inverted cardboard hidebox (usually referred to simply as a "hide"), a growing plant or a plastic vine.   Firmly anchored, sizable limbs are particularly important to arboreal and semi-arboreal snakes. Limbs, cut to the exact inside length of the terrarium can be secured at any level with thick "U-shaped" beads of silicone aquarium sealant that have been placed on the aquarium glass. Merely slide the limb downward into the open top of the U until the limb rests securely in place.   Snakes also use large tank-bottom logs and rocks, but these must be positioned so they can't shift and hurt the snakes. Providing Hiding Spots If snakes are nothing else, they are secretive. Most spend a good deal of time in, adjacent to or beneath cover of some kind. Captive snakes seldom outgrow the need to hide. Burrowing snakes spend their time beneath substrate, arboreal snakes seek clumps of leaves or other visual barriers, and other snakes seek surface hiding areas of some sort. Snakes prefer to coil in hiding areas that seem barely big enough to contain them. A suitable hidebox may make the difference between a nervous snake eating or not eating. If forced to stay in the open some snakes will become stressed and refuse to eat. This is especially true if the snake's cage is in a heavily trafficked area and the inhabitant is one of the more nervous species.   There can be no hidebox more inexpensive, readily available and readily replaceable than a small cardboard box with an access hole cut in one side. Commercial hides are available from pet stores. These may be preformed plastic "caves" or combination cave-water dishes, artificial stone pools and others.   Cork bark in tubes and other various shapes also makes excellent hides. Parakeet and cockatiel nesting boxes are readily accepted by most species of rat snakes, small pythons and semi-arboreal boas. However, unless these boxes have a hinged or removable side they are very difficult to clean. Hollowed cactus skeletons laid on the cage floor are also readily accepted by many small snakes.   Some materials are not suitable for use in a hidebox. These include cedar and other phenol exuding wood. Lighting and Heating Snakes use outside sources of heat and coolness to regulate their body temperatures. They warm themselves by basking in radiating heat or beneath an already warmed rock. Captive snakes warm themselves by lying on a surface heated by a bulb or above a heating pad or heating tape.   Ceramic heating units that screw into a light socket are now readily available. These and incandescent light bulbs must be screened so the snake cannot come in contact with them. Make certain your heating unit is thermostatically controlled and cannot overheat the snake.   We do not recommend electric hot rocks because they are so prone to malfunction.   Snakes must also be able to cool themselves. Provide thermal gradients by heating only one end of the terrarium. In small tanks, we put the hidebox on the cool end of the tank; if the tank is sufficiently large, we put a hidebox on both ends.   Snakes do not absolutely require UV emitting lighting, but some will bask for hours in it if available. Water and Cage Humidity Proper cage humidity is very important to the well being of a snake. Cage ventilation and water bowl size and placement can help you alter humidity somewhat. To increase humidity place a large water bowl over an undertank heater and put a solid cover on the top of the terrarium. To decrease humidity provide a small water bowl in the coolest spot in the cage and provide a screen top.   Aridland species drink and soak less often and require less humidity than woodland or rainforest species. In fact, if humidity is too high, aridland snakes will languish. Many successful breeders of these species suggest providing water to the more humidity-sensitive species only one or two days a week. Conversely, species from humid areas will have shedding problems if the humidity is too low.   If your snake is preparing to shed its skin, keep a water dish in the cage at all times large enough to allow your snake to soak.

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Care Sheet for Snakes in General
Main Category:	Snakes
Sub Category:	Snakes in General
Care Sheet Submitted By:	Anonymous
Years Experience:	10 to 15 Years
Species:	A in depth guide to corn snake care
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:	Any phase of corn snake.
Sexing and Characteristics:	Can be sexed by probing. Juveniles can be sexed by popping. I recommend having your vet do it so you don’t injure it, which could make it unable to be bred.
Mostly Active During:	Night
Substrate and Water Needs:	I recomend using repti-bark as a substrate. You can also use newspaper, although it is not very pretty. Also, they should have a water bowl available at all times. Your snake should be able to completely fit its entire body in its water bowl and be able to submerge it’s self without the water in the bowl overflowing into the cage.
Lighting and UVB:	Full spectrum during the day, and nocturnal light ing at night
Temperatures and Humidity:	Doesn’t have a specific humidity requirement, I would just advise not to let it get to humid or that can cause blister on their skin(scales). Also, the day time temperature can range any where 75- 90 degrees. I recomend about 85-88 degrees on the warm end of the cage, and about 75 - 76 degrees on the cool end of the cage. At night tim e the cage temperature shouldn’t drop below 65- 60 degrees. (all temperatures listed above are farenhieght).
Heating and Equipment:	I use full spectrum bulbs that i get from my local petshop. You can also use a under cage heating pad. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU USE HOT ROCKS, THESE CAN SEVERLY BURN AND SCAR YOUR ANIMALS!!!!!
Caging Provided:	You can keep hatchlings in a 15 gallon long cage.An adult should be kept in a 40 gallon. The bigger the cage the better.
Diet:	Carnivorous
Description of Diet:	Diet should consist completely of mice for adults, and pinkies or fuzzies for juveniles. Frozen rodents are preferable, because live rodents can injure your snake. When you defrost mice you should make sure they are completely thawed out, because if there are any cold or frozen areas left it can cause your snake to become ill. Also, i find it works best to defrost rodents in a glass of warm water, it works quicker than just leaving the rodents out, and helps reduce the # of bacteria that grow on you rodents when they are defrosting. NEVER MICROWVE FROZEN MICE, THEY WILL EXPLODE!!! For hatchlings that prove to be difficult feeders if you are feeding frozen rodents, you may want to try scenting your mouse with grass, or try feeding your hatchling snake a lizard tail or crickets.
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:	You really dont need to supplement their food with anything if they are consistent feeders, because the bones in mice have all the calcium they need in it. On the other hand if you have a female that is gravid or about to lay eggs, then you may want to dust their food with Reptical Calcium Supplement. This is good since the female is having to use a lot of calcium and other nutrients to produce her eggs.
Maintenance:	You should clean the water bowl and replace the water every day. This helps prevent the growth of bacteria. You should also, spot clean when ever your snake defecates. Also, a good solution to use to clean your cage with is a mixture of half vinegar and half water. Just make sure to rinse the cage well with water and let the vinegar smell air out before replacing your snake.
Some Words on this Species:	This is very good snake for people who haven’t kept a reptile, or snake before. This is due to their small sixe 4- 6 ft.,ease of care, and gentle disposition, and they are relatively easy to breed.

Care Sheet for Reticulated Pythons
Main Category:	Snakes Care Sheet for Reticulated Pythons Main Category: Snakes Sub Category: Reticulated Pythons  Care Sheet Submitted By: Xandra Years Experience: 15 to 20 Years Species: Giant Snake Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover: N/A Sexing and Characteristics: Females tend to grow larger than males. Both sexes are giant snakes...15-30+ feet. This is the largest (longest) snake in the world. Most are over 200 lbs. some are even in the high 300 lb range. Anacondas weigh up to 550lbs. Mostly Active During: Both Substrate and Water Needs: Coconut floor, aspen, newspaper (pellets or paper), reptile litter, carefresh (rodent kind), NO CEDAR OR PINE!!! The fumes will kill your animal...THIS GOES FOR ALL CRITTERS. Large enough water for the animal to soak his whole body. This is mainly for a grown retic because of shedding, it is not fun to dry shed a retic even if he enjoys it. Lighting and UVB: Heat lamp is ok. but not needed. You do not need a UVB light but if you get one use flouresent bulbs. Temperatures and Humidity: 80-90 durning the day on one side of the tank & 75-80 on the other. Night is 70-90 on one side & 65-70 on the other. Very high humidity, spray the tank with warm water at least two times a day or get a fogger or waterfall system. Heating and Equipment: DO NOT USE HEAT ROCKS...snakes are not as smart as lizards when it comes to heat rocks, they can produce really bad burns. Heat pad under the tank is fine set on med. do not rest the tank on pad, the glass can heat up too much. Heat tape works well, black lights can also be helpful since they don’t stress out the snake and do not get to hot. Make sure what ever heat you use that your snake can not get burned. Caging Provided: I measure how long my snake is and make his cage 1/2 his length and twice the size of his coil. Diet: Carnivorous Description of Diet: Hatchlings: fuzzy rats, small rats, med. rats, or large mice. Adults over 5ft.: large rats, guinea pigs, degus, rabbits, pigs, chickens, Not day old chicks, and really anything large that moves they will eat. I inject my rats ect. with vitamins, and feed every 7-10 days. Make sure you can not see your snakes back bone and that his skin is not loose, if it becomes this way you are not feeding enough,( or he is dehydrated). Supplements, Nutrition and Usage: Every month at least I inject the food for all my animals, I use this trick for worming and certain antibiotics for certain illnesses. Please contact a vet before worming or giving medicine to an animal. Maintenance: I change the water at least every other day and clean the cage when they are in their seperate feeding tubs. Do not feed snakes on their substrate, this can cause serious or even fatal problems. Some Words on this Species: Even though they have a nasty reputation the captive bred babies that are handled correctly are wonderful adults, all snakes bite for two reasons, either they are afraid or you look like a good lunch, to avoid looking like lunch don’t move to quick, don’t wear anything that may have the smell of mammal on it, and if you have handled a mammal wash your hands. DO NOT BUY WILD CAUGHT, WE HAVE ENOUGH HERPS OUT THERE BREEDING THESE SNAKES...always remeber if you get bit ask yourelf what you did wrong to get bit in the first place, and if this snake makes you nervous or if you have never had snakes before try a ball python, rosy boa,or some type of colubrid, if you have not had a burmese yet don’t buy this snake. (start small)
Sub Category:	Reticulated Pythons
Care Sheet Submitted By:	Xandra
Years Experience:	15 to 20 Years
Species:	Giant Snake
Other Species or Phases this Care Sheet May Cover:	N/A
Sexing and Characteristics:	Females tend to grow larger than males. Both sexes are giant snakes...15-30+ feet. This is the largest (longest) snake in the world. Most are over 200 lbs. some are even in the high 300 lb range. Anacondas weigh up to 550lbs.
Mostly Active During:	Both
Substrate and Water Needs:	Coconut floor, aspen, newspaper (pellets or paper), reptile litter, carefresh (rodent kind), NO CEDAR OR PINE!!! The fumes will kill your animal...THIS GOES FOR ALL CRITTERS. Large enough water for the animal to soak his whole body. This is mainly for a grown retic because of shedding, it is not fun to dry shed a retic even if he enjoys it.
Lighting and UVB:	Heat lamp is ok. but not needed. You do not need a UVB light but if you get one use flouresent bulbs.
Temperatures and Humidity:	80-90 durning the day on one side of the tank & 75-80 on the other. Night is 70-90 on one side & 65-70 on the other. Very high humidity, spray the tank with warm water at least two times a day or get a fogger or waterfall system.
Heating and Equipment:	DO NOT USE HEAT ROCKS...snakes are not as smart as lizards when it comes to heat rocks, they can produce really bad burns. Heat pad under the tank is fine set on med. do not rest the tank on pad, the glass can heat up too much. Heat tape works well, black lights can also be helpful since they don’t stress out the snake and do not get to hot. Make sure what ever heat you use that your snake can not get burned.
Caging Provided:	I measure how long my snake is and make his cage 1/2 his length and twice the size of his coil.
Diet:	Carnivorous
Description of Diet:	Hatchlings: fuzzy rats, small rats, med. rats, or large mice. Adults over 5ft.: large rats, guinea pigs, degus, rabbits, pigs, chickens, Not day old chicks, and really anythin
Supplements, Nutrition and Usage:	Every month at least I inject the food for all my animals, I use this trick for worming and certain antibiotics for certain illnesses. Please contact a vet before worming or giving medicine to an animal.
Maintenance:	I change the water at least every other day and clean the cage when they are in their seperate feeding tubs. Do not feed snakes on their substrate, this can cause serious or even fatal problems.
Some Words on this Species:	Even though they have a nasty reputation the captive bred babies that are handled correctly are wonderful adults, all snakes bite for two reasons, either they are afraid or you look like a good lunch, to avoid looking like lunch don’t move to quick, don’t wear anything that may have the smell of mammal on it, and if you have handled a mammal wash your hands. DO NOT BUY WILD CAUGHT, WE HAVE ENOUGH HERPS OUT THERE BREEDING THESE SNAKES...always remeber if you get bit ask yourelf what you did wrong to get bit in the first place, and if this snake makes you nervous or if you have never had snakes before try a ball python, rosy boa,or some type of colubrid, if you have not had a burmese yet don’t buy this snake. (start small)

Ron Hines DVM PhD 7/30/04 b snake care snake care

b snake care snake care
Snakes have a magical quality unlike any other pets. Perhaps it is their effortless motion, silky sleekness or unfathomable thoughts that make them so bewitching. Other than the venomous varieties and a few that are quite cross by nature, they make excellent pets that adapt quickly to captivity and seem to enjoy it.

Choosing the Right Snake: b snake care snake care
The most popular snakes kept as pets in the United States are kingsnakes, boas and pythons. It is illegal in most states to collect snakes from the wild. Most families will be most pleased with a snake that matures at about three feet in length and 2-4 pounds in weight. Large boas and pythons are not good choices for beginners. I suggest that you not purchase adult wild-caught snakes. They often never tame down to become good pets. b snake care snake care

Choosing a Healthy Snake: b snake care snake care
Choosing a health pet is as important as choosing the right species for you. Ideally there will be several of the same breed and age to choose from. Pick a snake that has a smooth glistening skin without imperfections. The mouth and eyes should be clean and free from crusts and mucus. It should be alert active and bright-eyed. If it is a member of a clutch it should be one of the larger ones. Nothing should protrude from its vent. The facilities holding these snakes should be clean and sanitary and free from odor. Snakes can be “probed” by an experienced person to determine sex but there is no difference in temperament between male and female. It is often wise to visit a local zoo before you purchase a snake so that you can see these animals at their adult size. Their herpetologist will often take the time to discuss the plusses and minuses of each species with you.

Kingsnakes:

Kingsnakes make excellent pets. They are nonvenomous member of the Colubridae family of snakes. These snakes are hardy, beautifully marked and very hardy. Because they are native to cooler climates, they do not suffer as much as tropical snakes do during the winter months. Kingsnakes have even temperaments and are gentle with adults and children. They are naturally found in a wide variety of habitats in the United States. They generally have a pattern of alternating dark and light bands. Kingsnakes are known for eating other snakes, including rattlesnakes. In the wild they feed on lizards, birds, eggs, small mammals, turtles, frogs and smaller snakes. In captivity they do well on a diet of mice and small rats. Kingsnakes, kept as pets, can be taught to accept dead, thawed rodents. They are most active in the morning and late afternoon. Kingsnakes are constrictors that wrap suffocating coils around their prey. Kingsnakes lay clutches of 5 to 25 eggs that hatch in 45-80 days. Hatchlings are 8-14 inches in length. They reach maturity in 3-4 years. Captive born kingsnakes are commonly sold in the pet trade.
Boas constrictors are native to South America. Immature individuals are commonly imported or bred for the pet trade. There are ten species of boa constrictors. Like kingsnakes, boas subdue their prey by encircling and suffocating them. They eat almost any animal small enough to be ingested including fish, turtles, lizards, birds, rats and other small mammals. In the wild, boas hunt using heat-sensitive pits on the scales around their mouths. Common tree boas mature at about 39 inches in length weighing 4-5 ounces. The largest of the boas, the aquatic green anaconda, can weigh well over one hundred pounds. Boas are known for their placid temperaments, which make them ideal as pets. Yet their mature weight is not so great as to make them dangerous or a difficult species to maintain.

Pythons:

b snake care snake care b snake care snake careb snake care snake care
This large group of egg-laying snakes included African and Asian species that range from the Ball Python which matures at 4 to 6 feet in length and 5 pounds body weight to the giant pythons including the Indian, African Rock and Reticulated and Burmese pythons. The largest of these, the Burmese Python grows to over 20 feet and 200 pounds. They are strikingly marked and because they are sold when they are quite small, owners often make the mistake of not anticipating their huge adult size. When they grow into their mature size they are a challenge to maintain. Restrictiing the amount of food fed to slow weight gain is a poor idea that makes the snakes cross and snappy.
at 20 milligrams per two pounds of snake every two weeks for three treatments.
Caging. Snakes do best in glass-sided terrariums with a plastic mesh top. The terrarium should be at least twice the snake’s length and one half the snake’s length in width. Cages can not be too large. A 55 gallon aquarium is often a good start. The floor can be covered with newspaper ,paper towels or Astroturf. Certain snakes will ingest pine bark, corncob bedding or terrarium along with their food and become impacted. Although most, snakes do not you never know which will have the problem. The snake should be provided with a hollow log or container to hide in. Clean the cage regularly with a good dish detergent such as Dawn. Spray disinfect the cages after they are cleaned with a 1:20 solution of household bleach.

b snake care snake care b snake care snake care
Temperature and humidity. Place one or two aquarium thermometers in the snake’s enclosure. Snakes do best at temperatures ranging from 86F to 90F and humidity of 50-85% depending on species. Boas and pythons do best at the higher ranges of temperature and humidity while snakes coming from arid or cooler regions do best at the lower ones. These temperatures can be maintained through a central home air conditioning system and pans of water or soaked sponges help in elevating humidity. A heavy duty heating pad, placed under the terrarium on one-half its length will establish a temperature gradient so the snake can select its comfort zone. Snakes that are maintained too cold suffer from poor digestion as well as increased infections. I do not suggest the use of “hot rocks”. They often cause burns. The temperature of large snakes can be maintained using a livestock heating pad designed for swine. They are available from the Nasco Company (http://www.nascofa.com/prod/Home).

Food. Most snakes can be taught to accept dead, thawed prey. The size of the food fed can be two times the size of the snake’s head. Some common food items are rats, mice, chicks, guinea pigs and rabbits. They can be purchased frozen from a national distributor such as the Gourmet Rodent (http://www.gourmetrodent.com/). Baby snakes should be fed every week. Adults can be fed every 2-3 weeks. Do not leave live rodents in the cage with your snake unattended – they often bite the snake.
Water. A large shallow water dish should be present for every snake. They will not only drink this water, they will also bask in it which facilitates shedding.
Health Problems:

Some Reasons a Snake Will Not Eat:

There are many reasons a snake will not eat. Snakes that were recently imported often do not eat readily. Most snakes sold at pet stores are recent imports and many, especially mature individuals, did not eat since they were captured. Give it a good environment and be patient – they can live many months without eating. Many snakes prefer to eat at night so introduce a living prey to them in the evening. Remember not to leave a living prey unattended.
Snakes in a new environment may also refuse to eat for a long period. Be patient. Snakes that are pregnant or about to lay eggs also may not eat. Many snakes will fast during the winter. Snakes that are maintained at too low a temperature may not eat. Snakes that are blinded by retained corneal eye caps may also refuse to eat. And, of course, lack of appetite is often the first sign of sickness.
Respiratory infections in snakes are common. They occur in immuno-supressed snakes and are caused by common household contaminant bacteria. These infections manifest themselves as excess fluid in the mouth and nostrils, gaping of the mouth, listlessness and incomplete sheds. These infections result from inappropriate conditions such as cool temperatures, dry air, dehydration, stress, and parasites which all cause the snakes immune system to fail. To treat respiratory infections, we increase the temperature to 90F and eliminate or reduce all possible stress to the animal. If the condition persists, antibiotic therapy is required. The fluroquinolones (Batryl, Ciprofoxacin, Sarafloxacin) are often used for treatment. These snakes often never entirely rid themselves of the problem and relapses are common. Most respiratory problems occur during the colder months of the year or shortly thereafter. b snake care snake care
b snake care snake care

Mouth Rot: b snake care snake care

Mouth rot manifests itself as cankers or ulcers of the oral cavity accompanied by increased mucus. It is also called Ulcerative Stomatitis. Mouth rot and pneumonia have a similar cause – decreased immunological function or immunosuppression. This is usually caused by too cold a room temperature. Mouth rot is usually accompanied by infection of the blood with bacteria (septicemia). We treat it with antibiotics and increased ambient temperature (90-98F). Mouth lesion can be cleansed with 1.5% hydrogen peroxide solution or organic iodine (Betadine, Povidine) solution. Aeromonas and Pseudomonas bacteria are often the culprits. Periodic intramuscular injections of vitamins are also quite helpful. These snakes often must be force-fed. b snake care snake care

Incomplete Shed:

Incomplete shedding and retained corneal coating is a common result of too cool a temperature and too low a humidity. Retained corneal tissue and skin should be softened with propylene glycol or baby oil before it is removed. Soaking the snake in a dish or vat will also loosen retained skin.

Mites: b snake care snake care

b snake care snake care
Mites are common on recently purchased snakes. These are small reddish or brownish parasites found wedged and imbedded at the corners of scales. In small numbers they are a nuisance, large numbers can cause anemia. I treat them by wiping the snake down with a 0.005% solution of permethrin. Simply wiping the snake with baby oil will plug the mites breathing vents (spiracles) killing the parasites. At the same time the snake is treated, the cage should be disinfected with boiling water.

Internal Parasites: b snake care snake care

b snake care snake care
Internal Parasites are common in wild-caught snakes. It is wise to take a stool specimen from new snakes to a veterinarian for examination. The most common parasite found are roundworms. In small numbers, these parasites cause little damage. Heavily infested snakes remain thin. I generally treat these snakes with fenbendazole given at 20mg/two pounds orally every two weeks for three treatments.

Inclusion Body Disease: b snake care snake care

Inclusion Body Disease is a virus-caused (retrovirus) condition that is found in captive-bred pythons and boas. The disease does not respond to treatment. Some snakes carry the virus without symptoms (particularly boas). Those snakes that exhibit signs of the disease inevitably die. Some signs of this infection are paralysis, weight loss, listlessness, blindness, regurgitation and retention of shed skin. The virus also predisposes them to other diseases such as mouth rot. The disease can only be diagnosed by examination of the snake’s kidneys and pancreas. Affected snakes show pink-staining inclusion bodies within the cells of these organs, however many organs and systems of the body are affected.

Consult With Dr. Hines

Ball Python Care

General - Ball Pythons (Python regius) are from Western Africa, in the regions bordering the Sahara Desert. Many "wild caughts" originate in Ghana. They are usually very docile snakes, and rarely bite. Unlike other pythons they remain quite small and manageable. A 6 foot Ball Python would be a giant! They are more typically 3-5 feet in length.

Caging - A Ball Python can easily be kept in a 40 gallon breeder sized terrarium, but bigger is always better. Some people provide caging as large as 6'x 3', though that is not totally necessary. Obviously, the more snakes you have in the cage, the larger the cage needs to be. Regardless of size, your cage needs to be fitted with a very tightly closing lid or door. Ball Pythons are especially notorious for being escape artists. You should plan on getting cage clamps to hold down the lid if you are using a glass terrarium and screen lid. In addition, you will need hiding areas, climbing branches, and a water dish large enough to soak in. A good quality substrate will keep your snake happy. I have had good luck with aspen bedding. The snakes sit on top of it as opposed to burrowing in it. It is very easy to clean. Alternatives include newspaper or cypress mulch. Do not use cedar shavings for any of your animals as it is toxic.

Heating and Humidity - Ball Pythons need a hot, moderately humid cage. A basking spot of 90-100 degrees on one end of the cage should be offered, with the other end of the cage being 75-85 degrees. The humidity should be moderate, 40-60%. Many people aid the humidity by use of a humidity box. This is a plastic shoebox with damp moss or vermiculite inside. A hole is cut into it to allow the snake to go in and out as needed. Heat can be provided with a heating pad that is on 24/7 with a basking light on during the day to raise the temperature on the hot side. Alternatively one can use a Ceramic Heat Element. CHE's are great as they throw a lot of heat without the light. I use these 24/7 on my snakes and geckos. Make sure you screw them into a ceramic fixture. The plastic ones will cook in no time. If you notice that your python is not shedding all in one piece, increase the humidity either by misting more frequently or by providing that humidity box.

Feeding - Juvenile Ball Pythons will eat either fuzzy mice or small adult mice, one or two per week. As they grow, the size of the mouse can increase, too. FEED YOUR SNAKES FROZEN/THAWED RODENTS!!!! There are several reasons for this: 1) It is more humane to the prey animal 2) Mice, rabbits, gerbils, etc can KILL your snake by gnawing on it. 3) The freezing process kills many germs. At the very least please feed pre-killed. Adults will eat medium sized rats. Rats and mice are available frozen from a number of places. I generally get enough frozen mice and/or rats to last 3-4 months at various reptile shows. Put them in zip-lok freezer bags and then in to a paper bag. No one needs to know they are there. Buying them at the pet store is very expensive and then you have to worry about killing it. Frozen thawed is the way to go. Thaw them out in hot tap water. DO NOT thaw them in the microwave. You don't want to know why…

Health - Many Ball Pythons sold in pet stores are wild caught, (or farmed in Africa) and carry various internal and/or external parasites. If you purchase a wild caught or farmed Ball Python (or suspect you have), a trip to the vet is necessary, and will help your Ball Python live a longer, healthier life. This is good advice even for captive bred pythons, though the liklihood of parasites is lower. Ball Pythons can have shedding issues. If your snake sheds incompletely there is an underlying problem. This is usually due to improper cage conditions. Check your temperatures and especially humidity. Mist the snake more frequently and possibly do some soaking. If the eyecaps don't come off soak the snake in a clear r

Selection - A Ball Python that is healthy will appear active, alert, and have clear eyes. A well-rounded out body shows that your Ball Python is not dehydrated or starved. Your best bet is to have the breeder let you watch the snake eat. If it eats for him it will eat for you. If your Ball Python becomes thin, has sunken eyes, or has black spots on the head behind the eyes, TAKE HIM TO A VET that is experienced with reptiles! (See www.herpvetconnection.com for one in your area) Extremely small red or black dots that move around on your Ball Python are mites, and may be treated at home with Provent-A-MiteTM. (See www.proproducts.com for more information. This is the only product that really seems to work the first time and appears to be perfectly safe if used according to the directions.)

Sexing - The gender of most snakes must be determined by your vet or someone experienced with probing them. External features are usually not a reliable indicator of gender. Probing Ball Pythons is dangerous in the wrong hands. Have someone experienced do this.

Other sources of information

The Ball Python Manual by Phillipe De Vosjoli, Advanced Aquarium Systems, Escondido, CA.

Melissa Kaplan's Herp-Care website has much more detailed information about reptiles, including Ball Pythons. http://www.anapsid.org is her site.

Another great source of information is http://www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide/

Supply list:
Cage with lid
Lid clamps - this is a big deal. Don't count on a stack of books or big rocks to hold that top down!!!
Under-tank heater OR
ceramic heat emitter & fixture
basking lamp
thermometer/humidity gauge
Aspen bedding or newsprint (unprinted newsprint should be available either free or very reasonable at your local newspaper
shallow water dish
climbing branches
hide box(es)
frozen rodents

NERD Herpetocultural Library
Name: Burmese python Scientific name: Python molurus bivittatus AKA: "Burmese rock python, Burm"
General Information
Distribution
Found from India to lower China, the Malay Peninsula and on some islands of the East Indies.
Wild Status
Widespread throughout their range but diminishing in population density, Burmese pythons are extensively exploited in the skin trade and large numbers are slaughtered for their meat & hides. They are listed as an Appendix II animal by CITES, and noted as endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN). When encountered in the bush Burms are often immediately killed for their skin, meat or the simple fact that it is a snake.
Description
Burmese pythons are large, heavy-bodied serpents. The net-like pattern of a normal Burmese is typically tan or dark brown outlined in yellow and black. The belly is white or cream colored, and the head is large and somewhat blocky. Hatchling and juvenile Burmese pythons have a tendency to be defensive and nippy, but also become tractable & placid with consistent, gentle handling (use gloves if necessary). Wild caught Burmese pythons typically do not make good pets, as they retain a defensive nature & are much more prone to biting than their captive bred counterparts. A large, angry Burm is a force to be reckoned with!
Size
Hatchlings approximately 18" - 24"+/-. Females average 17'- 20', males average 10' - 15' adult size. This is a species where sizes over 20 feet/200 lbs are not uncommon in mature adults.
Lifespan
Burmese pythons may live 30 years or more in captivity with proper care.
Color Mutations
Color & pattern mutations of Burmese pythons include Albino, Patternless (green), Granite, Albino Granite, Albino Patternless, Hypomelanistic, and "fader" - where the animal loses pattern definition over the course of its life.
Captive Maintenance Guidelines
Difficulty Level
Intermediate +. While Burmese pythons are fairly easy to care for in captivity, their sheer strength and size make them unsuitable for beginner keepers. We recommend Burmese pythons for the intermediate herp keeper with a good understanding of python husbandry. Please do your homework and assess whether or not you will be able to house an extremely large python with an extremely large appetite for an extremely long time, before making the commitment & purchasing a Burm.
Enclosure
Enclosures can be as simple or elaborate as one is capable of caring for. Remember that the more "stuff" you put in a cage, the more "stuff" you have to clean & disinfect on a regular basis. That said, there are many different enclosures that work well for Burmese pythons, including, but not limited to: plastic sweater boxes (i.e. Rubbermaid), melamine racks, Freedom Breeder cages, and any of the commercially available plastic-type reptile cages, (i.e. those from Vision Herp & other similar manufacturers). Glass aquariums & tanks are adequate; keep in mind that the screen tops on such enclosures can make it difficult to maintain humidity levels. Also refer to our Snake Caging care sheet for more information. Juvenile Burmese pythons seem to do well in smaller enclosures that make them feel more secure; a small snake in a big cage can become overwhelmed & stressed. These snakes grow FAST, so for smaller Burms we recommend setting them up in inexpensive - yet sturdy - caging units until they have done some growing. Better to invest in permanent housing for an adult Burmese than put resources towards expensive caging while your snake is young. This does not mean "throw a small snake into a huge enclosure." For large Burms, building an enclosure may be more practical. The length of the cage should be - at a minimum - half the length of the snake. Also, if you must choose between the width of the enclosure & the height, always choose the extra width, as your Burmese will appreciate the extra floor space. Remember that ALL enclosures must allow for a proper thermal gradient that the snake can utilize, with a hot spot on one end and a cooler spot on the other. This is an extremely important aspect to take into consideration when planning a cage for a very large adult Burmese python.
Substrate
There are a few substrates that work well. Newspaper is the cheapest & easiest with regards to cleaning & disinfecting: out with the old, in with the new. Cypress mulch is great for controlling humidity, but remember that too much humidity can be as detrimental (if not more) as too little. Never use any substrate containing cedar, as this is deadly to reptiles!
Temperatures & Heating
Provide your Burm with a basking spot of 88-92 °F and an ambient (background) temperature of 78-80 °F. The ambient temperature should not fall below 75 °F. It is vitally important to KNOW the temperatures at which you are keeping your snake(s). DO NOT GUESS!! A great way to monitor temps is to use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe. Stick the thermometer to the inside of the cage on the cool end and place the probe on the warm end, and you'll have both sides covered at once. There are several ways to go about heating the enclosure: undercage heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, basking bulbs (both regular daytime & red "night" bulbs) are just a few. With heat emitters & bulbs it is necessary to really keep an eye on the humidity within the enclosure, especially if combined with a screen top, as both will dry the air quickly. Use thermostats, rheostats and/or timers to control your heat source. Do not use hot rocks with snakes as they often heat unevenly over too small of a surface area & can cause serious burns, not to mention that even the largest heat rock available would quickly be outgrown by a Burmese python. For heating large Burmese pythons, the various radiant heat panels available specifically for reptiles tend to do a great job. They are manufactured an a range of sizes, so finding one to suit your Burm is only as difficult as contacting the manufacturer to determine which size you need. Note: Burmese pythons are extremely susceptible to respiratory infections caused by improper temperatures. It is very important to ensure that your python has access to correct temperatures at all times, as these respiratory infections are a leading cause of death in captive Burmese pythons.
Humidity
Providing proper humidity for Burmese pythons is important to help ensure complete sheds & avoid respiratory infections, but as stated previously too much humidity can be as problematic as too little. First off, let's establish "humidity" as the amount of moisture in the air. To provide your snake with a humidity level of 50% - 60%, you have a couple of options. 1. Use cypress mulch or a similar substrate that can be misted & is mold-resistant. Cypress is good for this as it turns a tan color when dry & a rich brown when wet, giving a visual cue as to when it needs to be dampened again. 2. Make a "humidity box" for your snake. This consists of packing a plastic container with damp sphagnum moss (think well-wrung-out wash cloth to gauge moisture), cutting a hole in the top or side & placing it in your python's enclosure so that it can access the box as it pleases. For larger Burmese, you can use a giant Rubbermaid tote if the enclosure allows the space in which to do so. If not, then it is possible to raise ambient humidity by placing a mixture of cypress mulch & sphagnum moss towards the warmer end of the cage, and misting this bedding down frequently. Keep in mind that if you have a screen top on the enclosure you will probably want to cover it most or all of the way with plastic, a towel or some other means of keeping moisture from escaping. This is also where having proper, reliable ambient temperatures (back to that thermometer!) is important, as warm air holds more moisture than cool air. You want the enclosure to be humid, not WET. A soggy cage can eventually lead to bacterial & fungal infections and consequently, death.
Lighting
Supplemental lighting is not necessary for this species, but if used should run on a 12/12 cycle, meaning 12 hours on & 12 hours off. Continuous bright, overhead lighting is stressful to snakes, especially a nocturnal serpent such as this one.
Water
Always make fresh, clean water available to your Burmese python, as they have a tendency to drink copiously. The size of the water dish is up to you. If it is large enough for the python to crawl into and soak, sooner or later your snake will make the most of the opportunity, and most seem to enjoy a nice soak from time to time. Ensure that the bowl is not too deep for juvenile animals - 1" or so will suffice. Snakes of many species will defecate in their water bowls from time to time, so be prepared for cleaning, disinfecting & a water change when necessary. It is often beneficial to have a spare water bowl for such occasions, so that one may be used while the other is being cleaned.
Accessories
One cage accessory that is beneficial to keeping a happy Burmese python is a good hide box...maybe even a couple of them, especially for juveniles of this species which tend to be more defensive & sensitive than tame adults. Provide one on each end of your python's enclosure so that it doesn't have to choose between temperature & security. Clay flowerpots, plastic flowerpot trays, and commercially available hide boxes all work quite well.
Feeding
Feed your snake an appropriately sized rodent weekly. A baby Burmese should begin feeding on small adult mice or rat crawlers. They can eat rats from the time they are young - starting off with rat pups or "crawlers" for younger snakes & moving up in size as the animal grows. At 3', the snake is large enough for weanling rats. At 4', it is typically capable of consuming adult rats. Do not handle your snake for at least a day after feeding, as this can lead to regurgitation. Most Burmese pythons have a terrific feeding response and are generally pretty easy to convert to frozen/thawed or pre-killed rodents (see Snake Feeding caresheet). Never leave a live rodent unattended with ANY snake. Feed at least once every 10 days, especially with younger rock pythons. While it is somewhat possible to control a snake's growth rate through maintenance feeding, remember that feeding too infrequently will leave you with a hungry snake that is constantly searching for food, resulting in stronger feeding responses during interaction with handlers. On the other hand, frequent feedings of 1 - 2 times weekly will result in quick growth, so It may be wise to consider how large you wish the snake to get over a certain period of time. This is a species where developing proper feeding habits is crucial to safe handling, as Burmese pythons are incredibly strong constrictors & a force to be reckoned with when hungry. Never handle rodents and then handle a snake; you may be mistaken as food. As the snake grows to lengths exceeding 6' it may be wise to feed the snake only dead rodents by placing prey items in the enclosure for the snake to discover, as this may encourage more gentle food acquisition. You will eventually have to feed your Burmese python very large prey items - i.e. big rabbits. Take the time to find resources for bigger prey items so that you may take into account the acquisition & cost of feeders prior to your Burm reaching adult size.
Maintenance
Spot-clean your snake's enclosure as necessary. When feces/urates/uneaten prey items are present, remove them as soon as possible. Clean & disinfect the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using a 5% bleach solution approximately every 30 days. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly and allow to dry before replacing cage furniture & your snake.
Basic Reproductive Info
Burmese pythons reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months to 4 years of age. Breeding size occurs at lengths of 6' - 9' (males) and 9'+ (females). Breeding season in captivity typically ranges from November to March. Stop all feeding at this time. Animals should be well established and in excellent condition before any breeding is attempted. Breeding may be induced by reducing daytime photoperiod to 8 - 10 hours and dropping nighttime temperatures into the mid 70's. Introduce the male into the female's cage. Misting the animals with water may induce breeding activity. Females typically shed 14-20+ days after ovulation; eggs are typically laid 30 days after post-ovulation shed. Clutch size for Burmese pythons ranges from 20 - 80+ eggs. At an Incubation temperature of 88 - 90F (optimal), these eggs take between 55 - 70 days to hatch.
Notes/Comments
Burmese pythons are one of the tamest large constrictors known, making them extremely popular pet snakes. Sadly, many people purchase cute little baby Burms as an "impulse buy" before taking into consideration the care and maintenance requirements for such a large, powerful animal. We encourage all potential Burmese python owners to thoroughly consider whether or not they will be able to eventually house an 18+ foot, 200-lb snake that will require large rabbits as food. For the informed herpetoculturist who is prepared to manage these large, charismatic serpents, the Burmese python can make an extremely rewarding captive that is a joy to interact with and maintain.

BURMESE PYTHON (Python molurus bivittatus)

This is the "Big Boy." The largest snake commonly kept in the hobby. The Burmese "Burm" python can grow as large as 26-feet in captivity. Most animals in captivity will top out at 16-18 feet. This still makes this one large, powerful snake. A snake that you should really think about, before buying. They are cute as hatchlings, already measuring out at 18-inches. These snakes will grow rather fast. It’s not unusual for them to grow 7-10 feet in the first year. There are also large cage requirements and huge feeding bills.

The Burm is the most trustworthy of all the pythons. It must be remembered that while these animals are trustworthy, they still have all the equipment to give you a "nasty bite." Bottom line, while these animals are quite docile, they are not domesticated in the same sense of a cat or dog.

If you are willing to buy a large cage, can afford the feeding and completely understand that these snakes can and will grow large - this is the snake for you.

Native Habitat: Indo-China, Southern China, Indonesia

Size: 18-26 feet. Average is 16-18 feet. Large Burms may weigh up to 300 lbs.

Morphs: Burmese pythons offer some of the most striking patterns and colors in the hobby. There is nothing more striking than the albino Burm. It has a deep yellow color against a white pattern. Truly an awesome looking animal. Other morphs include; Green, Labyrinth, Granite, Albino green, Tiger, Albino labyrinth and many heterozygous forms.

CAGING: The Burm will require a large cage as an adult. Juvenile may be kept in a 20 gallon long aquarium (30" x 12" x 12") for a short time. While you are waiting for the snake to outgrow this cage, start planning your future cage. The adult burm will require a 6-8 foot long cage, at least 2-feet wide and 1½-2 feet high. Naturally all of these dimensions can be enlarged. I would avoid large aquariums for adult burms. They will be extremely hard to clean.

Neodesha ABS caging - available in many sizes. Lightweight, durable and easy to clean. Virtually escape-proof. Easily heated with heat tape. Can be ordered with special heat lamp & lighting vents on the top of the cage. Can be a bit pricey, but is the best commercially available cage.

Melamine caging - Wood caging with a melamine exterior. These cages are quite durable, but they are also quite heavy. If not made right (every seam is properly waterproofed & sealed), the cage may warp or the melamine may bubble. Must be heated from above (ceramic heat emitters) or with pig blankets. Escape proof. A step below the Neodesha.

Wood caging - often a do-it-yourselfer project. The major problem with wood cages is they are heavy and hard to clean. They must be sealed with a quality water-based polyurethane. All the seams must be sealed with a water-proof sealer. Heating must be done from above (ceramic heat emitters) or pig blankets. Can be a major drawback if you ever have a mite infestation. Mites will get in the little nooks and crannies. My least favorite. Contact the LIHS if you decide to build a cage. We will give you a few hints.

BOTTOM LINE on CAGING - the Cage MUST be ESCAPE-PROOF !!

Substrate - Burmese pythons and newspaper were made for each other. That’s the choice and I wouldn’t use anything else. Once you see how large their end product is after feeding you will agree. Big snake = Big Waste Product!!

HEATING - UTH Pads, Heat Tape, Ceramic Heat Emitters and Pig Blankets are all used to heat the Burm. See the various cagings above to see which method would be best for you. Temperature should run 80°- 90° F during the day. At night the temperature should drop to 75°- 80° F. Thermostats are available to help regulate temperature drops. Thermometers are a necessity to monitor the "Hot" and "Cool" areas.

LIGHTING - No special lighting is required. It never hurts to have full-spectrum lighting on your snake, but it isn’t a necessity. Light should be on for 10-12 hours a day.

HUMIDITY - Burms come from a naturally humid environment. However, to keep them in that type of humidity at home can lead to health related problems. It is preferable to leave the water bowl in with the snake during the day, but remove it at night. You can leave it in there all the time, but you’ll have a lot of clean up time on your hands. Too high a humidity level can lead to bacterial infections. It is advisable to monitor your humidity level with a humidity indicator. If your burm doesn’t shed properly, then your humidity level is too low.

FEEDING - Small burms eat small rodents. Large burms eat large rodents. A hatchling burm can eat an adult mouse as its’ first meal. It’s not long before they have moved up to small rats, medium rats, jumbo rats and finally rabbits. Rodents are the food of choice. It is highly advisable to feed your burm "dead prey" only. Most experienced herpers feed their snakes frozen, thawed out food items. Once your snake gets bit by a live rodent it will never be the same. If you do choose to feed "live" your snake will get bit! Live rodents may also carry mites into the cage (added bonus - Ha!). Stay away from chicks and chicken. Some snakes become hooked on these items. What are you going to do when you can’t get these items? Stick with rodents.

Purchasing: Whenever possible buy a captive born (CB) animal. With all the burm breeders in the hobby there is no reason to buy a wild-collected animal. Look for bright clear eyes. Check for two eyes - you would be surprised! Good muscle tone, no loose sagging skin. The animal should feel firm to the touch. It should move about freely. Finally, watch the mouth for any labored breathing or mucus discharge.

If you have further questions about Burmese pythons or looking for a breeder contact the LIHS